Interview with Summer Wang & Doug Forster

With 600 goats, Chaoluomenqiqige is the first model farm of The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS) in China. It is also supported by the textile producer Niushi Wool Textile and the retailer J.Crew. As a model farm, it plays a key role in sharing its knowledge and expertise in GCS-compliant goat husbandry with other farms and herders. We were joined by Summer Wang, sales manager and GCS officer at Niushi, and by Doug Forster, chief sourcing officer at J.Crew, to discuss the reasons behind their companies’ involvement in the farm and the milestones it has already reached.

Ms Wang, as a model farm, Chaoluomenqiqige will become the first stop for all cashmere herders who want to meet GCS criteria. It has already delivered its first intensive course of training. How did it go for your team at Niushi and for the participating herders?
The training was rewarding for all of us. For our part, we were able to expand our knowledge about keeping cashmere goats, while the herders further developed their professional skills. The three-day, in-person training event was attended by herders living near the Chaoluomenqiqige farm and by Niushi employees. We visited the local feed store and veterinary practice together. An AbTF employee gave a detailed presentation on the correct combination of roughage and concentrate for feeding goat bucks, does, and kids at each stage of their lives. The veterinarians explained how sick goats are isolated from the rest of the herd and how they receive treatment under daily monitoring. This knowledge helps us to further improve the wellbeing of cashmere goats on our model farm. There were a lot of practical lessons about goat husbandry; for instance, we now know which equipment and pain relievers to use during castration, how to equip the goat sheds to best suit the goats, and how to ensure that the animals have a proper supply of feed and water.

As a cashmere producer, what is your aim in supporting the model farm? How often is the farm open to other herders during the year?
The model farm will encourage herders in the area to learn more about animal welfare and will share best practices with them. To improve the wellbeing of goats throughout the region, which is also our goal, the herders can share their knowledge with each other when the model farm opens its doors to them three times each year. There is one session held each spring, summer, and autumn season; unfortunately, winter visits are not possible due to weather conditions. At the farm, herders can learn from us and from each other and can share any experiences they have made since the previous season’s meeting.

Mr Forster, what made J.Crew decide to help set up a model farm?
At J.Crew, one of our goals is to source 100 percent of the key fibres in our materials, including cashmere, more sustainably by 2025. Because cashmere is so important to J.Crew, we’re making every effort to build a transparent, responsible, and sustainable cashmere supply chain, from farm to factory. Since 2021, 100 percent of J.Crew’s cashmere sweaters and non-apparel products have contained The Good Cashmere–verified cashmere. J.Crew is continuing to make significant efforts to ensure its cashmere is sourced with respect for animals, people, and the planet, which is why we decided to invest in the development of two model farms in Inner Mongolia as a commitment to scaling up best-in-class practices in support of animal welfare, human rights, and sustainability.

Why is this model farm so important for getting GCS-verified cashmere fibre to the market
Since J.Crew launched the Model Farm Program in 2022, its goal has been for these farms to serve as stewards in their communities and help share their best practices with neighbouring farms. Scaling up GCS-verified cashmere through model farms is essential for meeting the growing demand for responsibly sourced cashmere. J.Crew was the first U.S. member of The Good Cashmere Standard and stands behind the organisation’s aim of improving the welfare of cashmere goats, the lives of herders and farming communities, and the environments in which they live. This approach not only aligns with J.Crew’s brand ethos to do better — in aspects ranging from the people who create J.Crew products to the impact J.Crew has on the planet — but also helps set a standard to drive innovation and to positively influence responsible sourcing in the industry.