Interview with Gediminas Mikutis

The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS) has teamed up with Haelixa to find new options for marking GCS-verified cashmere from the earliest possible stage of the production process. The aim is to trace the verified cashmere throughout the textile value chain and to ensure that GCS is not blended with conventional cashmere. The producers Artwell and Erdos have started to test the DNA markers together with Haelixa. We spoke with the CTO and cofounder of Haelixa, Gediminas Mikutis, about the method and the first pilot projects.

Mr Mikutis, together with the producers Artwell and Erdos as well as The Good Cashmere Standard, Haelixa has tested a unique marking system to trace back cashmere fibres in the supply chain. How does this tracing system work?
The Haelixa traceability solution is based on the use of DNA markers, which give textile fibres a unique, traceable identity. And this is how it works: a unique DNA marker is designed for every raw material and applied to the fibre as early as possible in the supply chain (e.g. at dehairing stations or farms). The unique DNA then sticks to the fibres through all the production steps and remains detectable in the finished garment. The product identity can be tested at any point, verifying or disproving its origin and authenticity. This system provides a robust forensic tool to manage supply chain risks and to ensure the products’ authenticity in accordance with due diligence requirements.

How did the field test go?
The first implementation occurred in the supply chain of Artwell, a vertically integrated cashmere manufacturer, starting with their dehairing station in Inner Mongolia. At this stage, the fibre is delivered from farms in the surrounding area. Individual batches of material are marked with a unique DNA code through an automatic spraying system installed by our team. Afterwards, the raw material is transported to various Artwell facilities in China and other countries for dyeing, spinning, and knitting and for the manufacturing of the finished product. During the initial trial, we tested yarns and knitted products and detected specific DNA codes to trace the finished products back to a specific fibre lot.

From a business perspective, what is the advantage to a system like Haelixa’s?
The conventional method of ensuring traceability involves gathering information about the product at each processing stage. However, this approach is only effective if the data itself is reliable. Unfortunately, if the material is blended or altered or if the documentation is tampered with, the system fails. This way brands and retailers end up buying a lower quality product than claimed.
Haelixa uses forensic testing to ensure that the final product originates from a specific location and to verify the garment’s origin, sustainability, and quality claims. Haelixa’s traceability enables brands and retailers to manage supply chain risks better and to comply with increasingly strict supply-chain duediligence legislation. Additionally, the provided data allows our customers to communicate their supply chain story and build brand equity.